Big Pine and No Name Keys

After crossing the Spanish Harbor Bridge at MM 33.5 you'll arrive at Big Pine Key.  You'll see lots of signs here telling you you're approaching Key Deer habitat and you do need to take these signs seriously.  Daytime speed limits on the highway are 45 and at night it drops to 35.

Big Pine is the second largest island in the chain, behind only Key Largo.  North to south, it stretches about eight miles, and east to west about two.  About three and a half miles of US-1 cross Big Pine today along the path of the railroad from 1912 to 1935.

Little is known for certain about the early history of Big Pine Key.  There were not many residents between 1870 and the arrival of the railroad.  What few residents WERE there were mostly engaged in farming and charcoal-making, as the large island lent itself well to growing hardwood trees.  Even Flagler himself didn't set down here long, stopping only briefly with a small construction camp that was later torn down and rebuilt on Sugarloaf Key.

Northeast of Big Pine Key is the ominous and mysterious No Name Key.  Until this year (2012), there was no commercial electrical power on the island, despite several dozen homes.  There is still no running water, the residents dependent on wells and pumps.

Map of Big Pine and No Name Keys - Click to Enlarge

In 1928, when the first Overseas Highway opened, the stretch from Lower Matecumbe Key to No Name Key was a ferry crossing.  By 1930, a road had been constructed from Grassy Key to Hog Key, and separate ferries plied the water between Lower Matecumbe and Grassy Key, and from Hog Key to No Name Key.  The original highway is now State Road 4A on No Name and Big Pine Keys.  No Name Key briefly enjoyed some popularity from 1928 to 1938 as cars headed to or from Key West would use the ferry dock on No Name Key.  A small village sprung up at the ferry landing.  The road crossed No Name Key on what is now Watson Road, crossed over Bogey Channel to Big Pine Key, followed Watson Blvd on Big Pine Key, then crossed to Little Torch Key on a wooden bridge, turned south, then rejoined the railroad route before crossing to Middle Torch Key.

Today, people come to Big Pine Key for a several reasons, but overwhelmingly the most popular attraction here are the tiny Key Deer.  Highly endangered and numbering only in the several hundreds, these miniature deer exist nowhere else in the world other than Big Pine Key, No Name Key, and a few neighboring islands that they occasionally swim to.

Immediately upon arriving on Big Pine Key, if you'd like you can make the first left on Long Beach Drive.  There is a small chance you may see some deer down this road, but otherwise this road is a bit disappointing.  Most inappropriately named, there is no beach down here, much less a long one.  The road winds down about a mile and a half and peters out in a small community.  Head back to the highway and make a left to continue south on US-1.

The next mile or so, from MM 33 to MM 32 is deserted.  There are high fences on both sides of the road in an attempt to keep the deer OFF of the road.  Another half mile later, the highway will bear to the left and deposit you in downtown Big Pine Key.  After a few blocks you'll arrive at a traffic light at the intersection with Key Deer Blvd.  Turn right at the light, and then immediately take the left fork onto Key Deer Blvd.

Here's where you REALLY need to slow down.  The speed limit here is as low as 25 and they are not kidding.  Have your camera ready, too, as some of the best Key Deer viewing is along this road.  Travel up Key Deer Blvd about a mile and a half to the stop sign at Watson Blvd (old SR 4-A, the old highway).  Continue straight, watching for Key Deer on both sides of the road, and even IN the road. 

Can you spot the Key Deer?

After 1.2 miles there will be a small parking area on the left side of the road.  You can park here and explore the Blue Hole if you like.  The Blue Hole is the remains of a quarry dug during the railroad construction that is filled with fresh water.  As the water is fresh, there are alligators there and you can get very close to them on a boardwalk over the hole.  There is also a nature trail.  Bring PLENTY of mosquito repellent - especially in the summer months.  Also, there is poisonwood in the area which will leave you a nasty rash/burn if you touch it, so don't touch any unfamiliar plants!

How many Key Deer do you see here?

Continue north on Key Deer Blvd from Blue Hole for another 1.0 miles.  There is no development in this mile and it is prime Key Deer viewing territory.  Watch carefully!  After this mile, the road will bear slightly right and end in another 2/3 of a mile.  In that 2/3 of a mile there is a community on the left hand side.  Turn down each of the two roads in the community - they are called Gulf Blvd and Kyle Blvd.  There are many homes down here and you are very likely to see Key Deer in the yards and/or the side streets.  Continuing to the very end, there is a small building on the left hand side that is the Big Pine Key Lions Club.  There are almost always Key Deer in the Lions Club parking lot!

Tips For Spotting Key Deer

• DRIVE VERY SLOWLY
• Be aware of what's behind you - if you are going TOO slowly, pull over and let traffic pass
• Watch the tree line on both sides of the road.  Deer are often either just AT or just BEHIND the tree line
• DO NOT feed the deer and DO NOT entice them to your car or into the road - a deer that eats from a car will eventually be killed by one!
• Use a telephoto lens to get close to them
• When you see one deer, there will almost ALWAYS be another one or more close by
• The PINK lines on the map above are the MOST LIKELY places to see Key Deer!

When you reach the end of Key Deer Blvd. turn around and head back south.  When you get back to the stop sign at Watson Blvd, turn left, go 3/4 of a mile, the road will bear left (north), then right again after a little bit.  Cross the bridge to No Name Key.  Be careful of the fishermen and women on both sides.  Once you get to No Name Key, stay on Watson Road and watch both sides of the road.  No Name Key probably has better deer spotting than even Big Pine Key.  Follow Watson Road to the
end, but don't go down the side streets, the neighbors are much less friendly here!

You'll know you've reached the end when you encounter the very large white rocks blocking your path and keeping you from driving into the sea.  If you'd like, you can park the car here and get out.  Walk down to the water and you can see the remains of the old ferry landing, and a short ways away some of the coral foundations are still here from the small village that existed here from 1928 to 1938.

Head back out the way you came.  Cross over the bridge back to Big Pine Key, and on your right, tucked into the trees a bit, you'll find the No Name Pub.  Readers of Tim Dorsey will recognize the No Name Pub from the book Torpedo Juice.  The No Name Pub is famous for the thousands of dollar bills stapled and taped all over the inside walls.  They have very good pizza, cold beer, a pretty good smoked fish dip, and really cool T-shirts.  Leave a dollar on the wall when you go.

When you're done exploring, head back the way you came.  Just before you get back to US-1 is a small shopping center with a Bell's, a Winn Dixie, and a Pet Store.  There's also a Key Lime Pie store where you can get frozen Key Lime Pie on a stick.  And the Key Deer Visitor Center is in here as well.