Saturday, September 8, 2012

Long Key

Early historical charts show Long Key variously labeled as Viper Key or Rattlesnake Key, a name that is believed to have come from the island's rough shape like that of an open-mouthed snake head.  In 1845, the War Department took possession of the island with the intent to build a reservation on it, a plan that never came to be.  By 1880, parts of the island were being privately acquired and large stands of coconut trees were being planted here.  Coconuts were prized not so much for their fruit, but for their fibers which were used to make rope and also to seal the hulls of sailing ships to make them watertight.

By 1906, railroad workers had reached Long Key and construction of the viaduct from Long Key to Conch Key was underway.  In October of that year, a hurricane struck Long Key and swept away a barge housing 150 railroad construction workers.  Nearly half of them were lost as the barge broke up in deep water.  Shortly thereafter, the railroad set to building many quarters and other buildings on Long Key to house railroad workers and other construction activity.

By 1907, the train itself had arrived at Long Key and construction of the viaduct began in earnest.  The Long Key viaduct was the second longest bridge on the railroad, at just over two miles, and was Flagler's favorite.  Many of the bridges were utilitarian structures that were purpose-built.  The Long Key Viaduct was a sweeping structure of concrete arches.  The bridge still stands today, although traffic no longer uses it.

Train Crossing the Long Key Viaduct

When the viaduct was completed, construction moved on and many of the railroad buildings were used for the Long Key Fishing Camp.  The camp enjoyed enormous popularity from 1908-1909 onward, with guests coming from Miami on the train.  More buildings were constructed, including a 75 room hotel, a post office, a general store and many cottages.  In 1911, cowboy and writer Zane Grey vacationed at Long Key, and returned every year thereafter.  In 1917, the Camp officially organized as the Long Key Fishing Club with Zane Grey as its president.  Many notable Americans belonged, including presidents Hoover and Roosevelt.

Of course, we all know what happened in 1935.  The Labor Day hurricane destroyed the fish camp and along with it, the Long Key Fishing Club.  The island remained a ghost town until the mid-1940's when it was acquired by Del Layton.  Layton set about re-establishing first the fish camp, with cabins and a restaurant, then expanding it into the city of Layton, which incorporated in 1963.  Layton remains an incorporated city today.

Be careful driving in this area, as the speed limit drops in the incorporated town of Layton and doesn't rise again until you leave Long Key.  You will see a police car on the side of the road in Layton, but it is empty and has been here for at least 19 years.  I think it is an empty shell of a car they just repaint every year.  In any event, the real police are usually not far behind and it's very easy to get a ticket in Layton.

The central and southern side of Long Key is taken up by the Long Key State Park.  This is an EXCELLENT park to spend a day in if you are staying in the middle or upper keys. There are several nature trails that offer views of the mangroves and the things that live in them, and a canoe "trail" you can follow in the shallow waters of the lagoon with stops along the way to see the plant and animal life on the bottom.  Canoes are available for rental at the park.  Otherwise, there is little to see or do on the island as you pass through.

Leaving the island, you will cross the new Long Key Viaduct, the 12th bridge you'll cross in the Keys.  Just before you do, though, at around MM 65.5, there is an opportunity to pull off to the left (heading south) and walk out onto the old viaduct.  Unfortunately, without a boat it is difficult to get a good view of the majestic old arches of the original viaduct. 

After crossing the bridge, you'll be on Conch Key.  Conch Key was briefly a construction camp for the railroad.  At the time, the railroad skirted the southern edge and everything to your left as you head down, did not exist.  This land was dredged up and created sometime in the 1950's.  Today, Conch Key is home to about 100 residents, but little for the traveler to see or do.

Conch Key is connected by a filled causeway to the next island, Little Conch Key - also known as Walker's Island.  Little Conch Key was public land until 1946 when it was sold to the Walker family who built a home and several rental cottages here.  By 1960 a causeway connected it to the highway.  Today, about eight private homes are down the causeway on Walker's Island.

Leaving the Conch Keys, cross your 13th bridge at MM 61.5 - Tom's Harbor Bridge #3 (no, I don't know what happened to bridges #1 and #2 any more than I know what happened to channels 1, 3 and 4) on to Duck Key, as you approach the extremely built-up area of Marathon.

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